Pernil is a porky alternative to turkey at Thanksgiving. Just guard the skin.

BY MONTI CARLO Carlo is a contributor to Food Network and Cooking Channel and co-founder of the digital platform Everything Food.

In fall 1985, with Thanksgiving looming, my mother prepared for her 20 guests as if Jesus and his disciples were coming over. She bought dishware, glassware, linens, gold-plated cutlery and even a fresh living room set to show off her brand-new home....

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